a blog about news and politics by steve janke
 

Spain bans toothpick models

In Spain, malnourished models have been banned from the catwalk of a major fashion show. Why are models so grotesquely skinny? And does that require a government response?




From the BBC's Deepest Desires program:

When looking for a partner people instinctively respond to a whole range of signals. The simplest of these is body shape. For women, a narrow waist and wide hips are a sign of fertility and therefore prove highly attractive to men.

And here:

Some researchers also found that men judge the female figure they found most attractive as heavier than women's ratings of the ideal body shape. In contrast, most women, including overweight women, desire men with a very low percentage of body fat, whether they be thin or muscular. This suggests that, contrary to the media focus, men are far more likely to be attracted to larger women than women are to be attracted to larger men.

Most of the top fashion designers are men:

"Who's Who in Fashion," a directory published by Fairchild Publications, is split 60-40 in favor of men, and "The Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion," published last year by Charles Scribner's Sons, included entries on 36 female and 69 male designers.

If most men find women who are not skin-and-bones to be attractive, and most fashion designers are men, why do fashion models share a body type that most men would find unattractive, even repellant?

Could it be that most male fashion designers are not like most men?

The Council of Fashion Designers of America, a trade group that vets those who apply for membership, is made up of 121 women and 156 men. Since 1986 its annual Perry Ellis awards for young talent have been given to 8 women and 29 men (20 of them openly gay).

In some quarters, the perception exists that fashion's main consumers, women, are more comfortable taking advice about how they should look from a man. "Men are often better designers for women than other women," said Tom Ford, the former creative director of Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, who more than anyone in the past decade built a brand on his own persona, that of a man whose sensual appeal is to both men and women. Whereas Bill Blass, Valentino and Oscar de la Renta founded their empires on the strength of a nonthreatening, nonsexual charisma, Mr. Ford aggressively promoted his sexually charged designs. "Of course there are many more gay male designers," Mr. Ford said. "I think we are more objective. We don't come with the baggage of hating certain parts of our bodies."

Whatever the reasons, gay men dominate the fashion industry. Is that why they design for fashion models that are undernourished to the point that their secondary sexual characteristics (hips, breasts, thighs) have atrophied to near invisibility?

On a practical side, fashion designers tend to cut their clothes for one size for a show. The reason is simple -- they can't be certain which model will wear what, and if in the chaos of the show they have to switch outfits, they want to make sure any model can wear any outfit. So the models need to be the same shape and size.

Height is easy to control. But that's only a small part of fitting clothes. Simplicity dictates, therefore, to eschew those elements of the female form that can vary widely even among women of the same height. Bust size, hips and so forth are as much, or more, a function of body fat than of bone. Two well-nourished women 5'8" might have dramatically different body shapes. The same two woman, malnourished, might be indistinguishable, especially if body fat is almost non-existent.

But then there is the gay thing. Is that the reason these female models look like effeminate men instead of healthy (and attractive) women?

Doesn't really matter to me, of course. I don't care about fashion, and if the entire industry evapourated tomorrow, I wouldn't miss it. I might even miss the news report about its disappearance. But the news from Spain is interesting, moreso the reaction:

Excessively-thin models have been barred from a major Madrid fashion show later this month for fear they could send the wrong message to young Spanish girls, local media reported last week.

Madrid's regional government, which is co-financing the Pasarela Cibeles, has vetoed around a third of the models who took part in last year's show because they weigh too little.

"That worries me," [Didier Grumbach, president of the couture federation and chamber of haute couture,] commented: "We are not going to regulate in tastes and colours."

No one is talking about colour. No one has ever died because they wore white after Labour Day:

Last month South American model Luisel Ramos died moments after stepping off the catwalk from heart failure.

The 22-year-old had been told by a model agency she could "make it big" if she lost a significant amount of weight, and for three months she ate nothing but green leaves and drank only Diet Coke.

By the time she traipsed down the catwalk at the Radisson Victoria Plaza in Montevideo, Uruguay, she had stopped eating entirely.

She was cheered and applauded by the fashionistas but collapsed two minutes after she stepped down from the catwalk.

We say that these women are adults, and that they can make their own decisions. But many have been models since their teens. For some, they have no marketable skills aside from modelling (ie, the ability to walk, turn, and walk some more). To decide to eat right and put on some weight is tantamount to professional suicide, especially if the fashion industry has, either deliberately or by accident, formed a cartel that bans healthy women from working there. If that's true, if for whatever reason a significant portion of the industry has banded together to make it impossible for healthy women to hold a job, then maybe the government does need to step in. Governments are expected to maintain the health of the free market by breaking up cartels and monopolies, since the lack of competition hurts consumers and employees. That a cartel has formed that not only limits competition but also puts the health of its workers at risk, workers who have nowhere else to go for a job, suggests a government response might be in order.

But the like I said, it's just fashion. It's not like it matters a jot what nonsense these designers think real people ought to be wearing. As long they stop hurting and killing these models, they can do whatever they want.


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Comments

I'm waiting for Spain to prohibit dumb-ass politicians.

Posted by: DCardno at September 15, 2006 12:14 PM



Maybe the government ought to set up weigh stations at each show. Models would be tagged with a "government approved" label. In between shows, these stations would be taken to local fastfood restaurants to combat the obesity epidemic that needlessly takes up resources in government run hospitals.

Posted by: Art at September 15, 2006 12:34 PM



It's called corpse chic darling!

Give me wide childbearing hips any day! I'll be labelled a bigot and homophobe for saying it, but can anyone honestly expect or fault gay designers for not having a clue as to what straight men such as myself would find attractive in a woman? Of course not, and why should they? Of course, this is not the sole reason why we must endure 'corpse chic' as a society. A similar and equally revolting misconception of female beauty stalks the corridors of power in Hollywood as well, and I seriously doubt that gay men run Hollywood.

Posted by: TheDiggler at September 15, 2006 01:57 PM



Actually, I am in favour of this new law. I don't think it will be needed for long.
The modelling industry is doing something truly horrible to young women. It is giving them an unhealthy and unreasonable "standard" to which they must attain. When girls are taking things like crystal meth to keep skinny, things have gone too far. An industry which forces women to starve themselves in order to remain competitive needs some serious examination. It if takes a law to make these idiots wake up, then so be it.

Posted by: Ruth at September 15, 2006 01:59 PM



Ban cheeseburgers...sugar...hydrogenated fats. Develop a safer alcohol...legalize Mary Jane.

Posted by: Feldwebel Wolfenstool at September 15, 2006 02:04 PM



Andalusians must get used to the idea that their government will tell them what to do. This will prepare them for the future when Islam will enforce the moral codes for all Andalusians.

Posted by: Philanthropist at September 15, 2006 02:56 PM



Are you serious? This frightening 'cartel' excludes 'healthy' women? Or maybe the market has shown that a certain body type sells more? Or maybe the practical reasons are more serious than you are willing to accept?

It's nice to see that spain's governments are protecting the civil liberties of their citizens. Now they just need to ban blacks from becoming politicians and regulate that only Jews can be money-lenders. Then we can really get this 'progressive' thing rolling, eh?

(for those who can't sense it, there is sarcasm involved in this post)

Posted by: Jeff at September 15, 2006 03:18 PM



Oh joy Rosie O'Donell on the catwalk.

Posted by: Simeon at September 15, 2006 05:39 PM



Must be something to do with their twisted view on humanity.

Posted by: at September 16, 2006 03:24 PM



AH the entire fashion/model/design industry lives in a wierd, fantasy make-believe fairyland anyway... expecting anyone in the world of "high-fashion" to think rationally is irrational.

I firmly believe most designers and models think that the toothpick model IS the normal bodyshape and that the 99.9% of the rest of humanity is the aboration... These guys are so out there that they actually think that the average woman wnats nothing more than to comes off the street and buy thier creations...

not a same head in the lot...

Posted by: Sierra at September 18, 2006 12:08 PM